Get out of debt. For real this time.

A mortgage is just a long loan against a house. Here's what actually matters.

• Fixed-rate vs ARM: fixed locks your rate for the full term (usually 30 yr). ARMs start lower then adjust — risky if rates rise.
• Down payment: 20% avoids PMI (extra insurance you pay for the bank). 3–5% loans exist (FHA, conventional) but cost more monthly.
• Get pre-approved before house-hunting. It tells you your real budget and makes offers credible.
• Closing costs run 2–5% of the price — title, appraisal, taxes, lender fees. Budget for them on top of the down payment.
• Rule of thumb: total housing cost (mortgage + tax + insurance) ≤ 28% of gross monthly income.

Loans aren't bad — bad terms are. Always read the APR and the total you'll repay.

• APR includes interest + fees. A 'low monthly payment' with a long term can mean you pay 2× the price.
• Auto loans: aim for ≤ 60 months. Longer terms mean you owe more than the car is worth (underwater).
• Personal loans usually beat credit-card debt — fixed rate, fixed payoff date.
• Refinance when your credit improves or rates drop ~1%+ — can save thousands over the loan.
• Lenders look at: credit score, debt-to-income (DTI), employment history, and down payment.

Two methods actually work. Pick the one you'll stick with.

• Snowball: pay smallest balance first. Quick wins, big motivation. Costs slightly more in interest.
• Avalanche: pay highest interest rate first. Mathematically optimal — saves the most money.
• Always pay minimums on everything else. Missing payments tanks your credit.
• Consolidation: roll multiple debts into one lower-rate loan. Useful only if the new rate is genuinely lower and you stop adding new debt.
• Settlement is a last resort — it hurts your credit for 7 years and any forgiven amount can be taxed as income.

Your credit score isn't permanent. Here's how to actually move it.

• Get free reports at annualcreditreport.com (the only federally authorized site). Check all three: Equifax, Experian, TransUnion.
• Dispute errors directly with the bureau — by law they have 30 days to investigate. Wrong addresses, paid-off accounts marked open, accounts that aren't yours.
• Biggest score factors: payment history (35%) and credit utilization (30%). Keep balances under 30% of your limits — under 10% is even better.
• Don't close old cards. Length of credit history matters; closing a 10-year card shrinks it.
• Rebuilding from bad credit: secured credit card, on-time payments for 6–12 months, then graduate to a regular card.